Grapefield Aruba:
the sectors and various routes

We have divided the cliffs in 5 sectors, each with it's own special characteristics. Each is described and mapped on the following pages. The maps give you a frontal view of the rocks. The distortion which is created by this artificial molding of a curved surface is taken for granted. From left to right you'll see the following sectors:

A) Terasse
B) Bringamosa
C) Tears
D) Garbage
E) Birdwatch

"Nine times out of ten a revolutionary is merely a climber with a bomb in his pocket"

George Orwell, Review of F.C. Greens, Stendhal.

A) Terasse:

Terasse is the sector where the rocks form of two different levels. There are no bolted routes in this sector (yet). To the left a walking route is marked, where it is possible to ascent and reach the top of the rocks where the tophooks are situated.

B) Bringamosa:

Bringamosa derives it's name from the sharp nature of the lower levels of the rocks. The Bringamosa is a local plant which stings.

The sector features the following routes:

1) Voor Jos:
Features a straight line through stalactite like rock. After the terasse (midway) the terrain changes to slightly sharp rock. Two tophooks, no further bolting. The route is dedicated to Jos Schilt who died in 1996 at the age of 22.

2) Hard/Suf:
Lower level technical with small sharp grips. Upper level comparable to Voor Jos. Tophooks, no further bolting.

3) Terug naar Osdorp:
Start by following the crack, then straight up. First route to be climbed on the lead in this area. Typical route for this sector. Osdorp is a suburban area of Amsterdam.

C) Tears:

This is by far the most interesting sector of Grapefield. It features overhanging terrain and L to XXL roofs. Very physical climbing and a selection of bolted routes. The sector is mapped on two separate pages.

Tears, left side:

1) Warawara Dream:
Start to the far right near the crack. Follow the hooks and cross to the right when you reach the big hole. Runout is through the gully. Slightly overhanging terrain. The keypassage is above the hole. Six hooks are leading to two bolts on top.

2) May the Force be with you:
Features a straight line through a large roof. The runout is to the right of Warawara Dream. When fully equipped there is a considerable ropefriction.

3) The Power of the Schwartz:
Follow the line through the "stalactites" and traverse to the left while following the hooks. Not suitable for toproping. The bolts on top are shared with route # 2. When climbed on the lead there is a considerable ropefriction on top. Watch the runout, which is straight up from the last hook!

4) project.

The right side of the sector:

5) Tears for Fears:
A future classic, which features overhanging terrain with good grips. Follow the "tears" and the bolts. As they say in Dutch: the venom is in the tail! 8 bolts on the way and 2 on top. The bolts on top are not easy to reach when climbing on the lead. Toproping is possible, but the edge is very sharp, which makes it an obstacle of some weight.

6) project.

7) Gino Gino:
As the mysterious Gino has left an obvious mark, the route is named after him. Tophooks.

8) Avenida Diagonal:
Features a line to the left. Follow the different "balconies". The runout is slightly to the right.

9) This is Grapefield: Straight line which features all terrain types of the rocks of Grapefield. Two bolts on top.

10) Caya Betico Croes:
A traverse from below Warawara Dream to the start of Tears for Fears. Loads of pitch. Very physical with a lot of overhanging terrain. Excellent training route!

D) Garbage:

A relatively rough area with a lot of loose rocks. No bolting, only bolts on the top.

1) Pure Garbage:
Steep ascent with a few small overhangs, ends through vertical terrain sharp, big grips. Tophooks, no bolts.

2) El Novato:
Ascent slightly to the left where the rock is relatively flat in structure. Ends through a gully in the rock. Tophooks, no bolts.

E) Birdwatch:

The area is named after the Kinikini birds usually sitting on the rocks and scoping the area for a possible prey. Further to the right the rocks become lower and are no longer suitable for sportclimbing.

1) Absurdismo:
Features a line which curves to the right. Upper level is very sharp with relatively large grips. Shares it's tophooks with routes # 2 and 3.

2) Machismo:
A straight line to the top.

3) Masochismo:
Pain is fun! Upper level is very sharp. Features a beautiful crack. Line curves to the right.