Berdorf on-line topo

INTRODUCTION

The "Guide des Rochers Luxembourgeois" of Christiane Jennequin, dated April 1981, has been sold out for quite some time. However, since 1981 a lot has changed in Berdorf, thus requiring a much more up-to-date information about the crags. New crags have been opened and others have been neglicted so much, that they cannot be climbed anymore. Many of the old routes have been rebolted and most of the routes may not be climbed anymore until the top, but only until the last bolts.

This overview sums up all freeclimbing routes that are allowed for climbing in Berdorf. The same indexation from the guide of Christine Jennequin is applied (the crags are listed from left to right). The grading of the routes is French. Some crags are difficult for us to grade because they are too difficult for us, or because we do not (yet) have information from the local climbers. In such a case the grading is given as ??.

There aren't access restrictions in Berdorf, ... yet; keep in mind that a closure of the area is always under consideration. Therefore, keep to the rules!

1. For groups of more than 3 persons, a written permission must be requested at:

   Adm. des Eaux et Forets de Diekirch
   Boîte Postale 30
   9201 Diekirch
   Luxemburg

2. Ending a climb on the plateau is not allowed. So, descend using the chains!
3. Outside the allowed area (that is, outside the yellow markings), climbing is forbidden.
4. Wild camping is not allowed.
5. Use only the official pathways and don't climb over the fenches, which are put in place to stop the erosion introduced by climbers.
6. Protect the site and take your (and others) garbage with you. Don't thow anything away!

This information can be exchanged freely. Keep us posted on remarks, additions, improvements, etc., to be able to provide an updated version. An edition with sketches of the crags and so on will not be available, so some local search remains required.

Have fun!

--
Paul and Ed de Leer

AIGUILLE WILDENAUER

The crags of the Aiguille Wildenauer and also the "Sieweschloeff" are outside the area where climbing is allowed. So, the two bolted routes may not be climbed.

DALLE "ECOLE"

Two small routes for newbies and a nice opportunity to get used to the type of rock. The wall is however outside the allowed climbing area.

Some of the best crags in Berdorf, especially for the "cracks". All routes have a direct departure, such that there is no need anymore to traverse, as was the case for the Paulette old style. Only the "Jacques" still requires traversing. The routes 1 to 4 all begin at the same bolt, after which three independent routes (6a-6b) can be climbed until the large ledge.

1. No name (route on the left side of the wall) 6c.
2. UIAA Le Trait d'Union 7c.
3. No name (left hand side of the top crag of the Paulette) 6c.
4. La Paulette (via a direct departure!) 6b.
   The original Paulette started in a characteristic corner in the middle of the wall, traversed diagionally to the left to reach a difficult crag at the top (6a/6a+).
5. Arete Paulette (begin at the old departure of the Paulette) 6c+ .
6. Isatis (between Arete Paulette and Jacques) 7c.
7. Jacques 7b.
8. Yéwéné (with a small detour via Bibi, 7c) 7c+.
9. Bibi (The old Face Madelon with a direct departure at the right hand side of the wall) 6a.

MASSIF DREYFUS

A very popular (crowded!) wall with nice routes which are often relative easy.

1. Cheminee Dreyfus 4-.
   UV. Fissure Dreyfus 4-.
2. Arete Dreyfus 4.
   UV. Rasoir 4-.
3. Voie Dreyfus Normale 4-.
   VV. Direct Departure 4+.
4. No name (yellow bolts, starts left and ends right of the FL) 6a+.
5. Franco Lux 6b.
6. Focquet Duchesne 6a+.
7. No name 7a.
8. Ecureuil 5b.
9. No name 6a.
10. Edelweis 5c.
11. La Fete des Peres 5b.
12. Gentiane 5b.
13. Marietta Tex 6a.
14. L'Onglee 5c.

MASSIF DE L'AMITIE

A splendid mix of technique and power. If you succeed climbing these routes on sight than you are ready for the real heavy stuff. It's an ideal wall for the "Rising Stars".

1. Lezard edge (new route at the left hand side of the Lezard, 3 R) 5c.
2. Le Lezard 4.
3. Bleusarde 6b+.
4. No name (one meter at the right of the Bleusarde) 6c.
5. Aspirant Moniteur 6a.
6. Veronique 6a+.
7. La Sans Nom 6b.
8. L'Amitie 6a.
9. La Feliane 6b.
10. Spinne 6a.
    UV. Direct Ending 6b.
11. Vème Anniversaire 6b.
12. No name (start in Vème Anniversaire and traverse subsequently to the route) 6c.
13. La Remoise 7b+.
    When using the wall of Petite Navire 6c.
14. L'Ecossaise 7a.
    VV. Direct departure (bloc) ?.
15. Yellow Submarine 6c.
16. Tulipe 6b+.
17. Teddy 6b.
18. Les Belges 5b.
19. Cheminee Teddy 4.
20. No name (route through the typical surface structure direct next to 18) 6b.

PETITE NAVIRE

Ideal for beginners. At the back wall the "Escalier Amont" and "Oblique Amont" were situated. These two diagonal routes can still be climbed, but are crossed by four new routes (8 to 10) with shorter distances between the bolts.

1. Escalier Amont 2.
2. Face Nord 4.
3. The Bear (Face Nord-Ouest) 5c.
4. Arete Ouest (Normale)=Schoffelchen 5b (bloc).
5. Petit Capucin 6a+.
6. Poupe 6a+.
7. Oblique Amont 3-.
8. No name 4.
9. No name 4.
10. No name 3.
11. No name 3.

MASSIF DE LA FAMILIALE

The wall for "debutes". Climbing onto the plateau is not allowed anymore. The old "Sorties de la Familiale" via the Grand Pas and the Chute de Pierre is therefore not possible anymore.

1. Cheminee de la Familiale 3.
2. Familiale Normale 2+.
   VV. Familiale Directe 3+.
3. Voie du Retablissement 5b.
4. Arete de la Familiale 5b.
5. Traversee Peine Perdue (morpho!) 6b.
6. No name 7b.
7. Pillier de la Familiale 3.
8. Traversee Ouest 4-.
9. Cheminee du Grand Pas 2+.
10. Face Ouest 5c.

MASSIF DU GRAND PAS

Some small routes that cannot be protected well enough and therefore aren't listed here. At the front side, directly next to the Familiale, there is one difficult route.

1. No name 7a.

MASSIF DU PARAPLUIE

From left to right the difficulty increases steadily. The right part has only recently received sufficiently bolting. The routes "La Grande Fissure", "La Voie des 2 Cousins", "La Jaune" and the "Traversee Kleine Nachtmusik" aren't listed because they cannot be protected well enough.

1. Kellertrap 3.
2. No name (the ridge between 1 and 3) 6a.
3. Speichertrap 5a.
4. Cyrano 5a.
   UV. Direct Ending 5c.
5. JF 5a.
6. La Plage 6b.
7. Lionel Terray 6a.
   UV. Ending at the right 6a+.
8. 25ème Anniversaire 6b.
9. Parapluie 7a.
10. (Sisyphus) 8a+.
11. Undercover Angel 8a.
12. L'In-achevee (until midway of the wall) 5c.
13. Traversee Bouchez (start at JJ) 5b.
14. No name (One of the old ending alternatives of the Traversee Kleine Nachtmusik)?
15. JJ 6b+.

CHEMINEES BETWEEN THE "PARAPLUIE" AND THE "GRANDE FACE"

The ideal area to learn to climb chimneys. You can do it everywhere! The protection is still trad-style.

1. La Vache 4. UV. Les Guepes 4+.
2. Cheminee a Vache 3-.
   UV. Via the ridge 4.
   Via the face 4-.
3. Cheminee Diedre Dülfer 3.
   UV. Ending via the wall of the Parapluie 3.
4. La Spe 3+.
5. La Leo 3+.

MASSIF DE LA GRANDE FACE

The "Grande Face II" has not been listed because the protection is insufficient.

1. Grande Face IV 5c.
   UV. L'Oblique 3+.
   UV. Free Reality 6a.
   UV. La Guy 5c.
   UV. Bivouac 4+.
2. Grande Face III (new bolts, the old departure is more direct!) 6a.
3. Grande Face I 5c.
4. La Sirene 6b.
   UV. Exit to the right 6b.
5. Miroir 6a.
   VV. Miroir Droit. Start at the right hand side of 7 and traverse towards 5 (6a).
6. No name ?
7. Judd Mat Gardebounen 7b.
8. Fissure Oblique 4.

MASSIF DU COIN

The routes at the right of Paul Bessiere are newly bolted and have received a direct departure.

1. Coin 5a.
   UV. Exit to the left 4.
2. O3 (Traverse to the right after the third bolt and finish the climb through 3) 7a.
3. Le Petit Trou 6b.
4. Paul Bessiere 4+.
5. Malou 5c.
6. No name 6a.
7. No name ?.
8. La Tempete 6c/6c+.
9. No name 6a+.

AIGUILLE DES 2 SECRETAIRES

1. Petite Fissure 4.
2. Grande Fissure 4+.
3. Les 2 Secretaires 6b+.
4. Taklan Maklan 7a.
5. Daniele 6a.
6. Sachsenriss 5b.
7. Cheminee des 2 Secretaires 3-.

MASSIF DE LA DAME JEANNE

The podium for the expert sportsclimbers. Public is always available in large quantities!
Many routes in the upper grading scale.
On the next wall left of the Apostrophe there is the route "Green Sleeves" 6c.

1. L'Apostrophe (project) 8b?
2. Cima Nikita 7c+ (An alternative for Cima Ovest; traverse further to the left and after that straight up. The terrible dyno of Cima Ovest is now bypassed.)
3. Cima Ovest 7c+.
4. Tapis Roulant 7b+.
   VV alternative departure of Tapis Roulant 5a.
5. Ayrton (crossing the Tapis Roulant)?
6. No name (start from the 1st relay of Tapis Roulant, keep to the left)?
7. Mike / Marylin 6c+/7a.
8. Pino Tubo (Previously Fissure Dame Jeanne+ Face) L1 6a L2 6b+.
9. Dame Jeanne L1 3 L2 4.
   MV. Chimney Direct 4+.
   Edge of the face of Dame Jeanne 5c.
10. Luftikus (right hand side of chimney DJ) 6a+.
11. Stop Bébé (eliminating! don't use the edge, otherwise 7a+) 7c.
12. Perfo Dodo 7a.
13. Willy 6b+.
14. Heinz 6b.
15. Grandes Vacances 6b.
16. Plan Incline 6a.
17. Bronco ?
18. Fissure des Noctambules ?
19. Diedre 4+.
20. No name 6b+ (a new line left of the Marguerite).
21. Marguerite 7a.
22. Bobby Brown 7c (Bobby Brown starts at the right hand side of the words "traverse ecole", goes diagonally left upwards over the ridge of the wall (round bolts); to the right is a route with new Petzl bolts and next to that route is Herman Buhl.)
23. Hasta la Vista Gringo ?
24. Hermann Buhl 8a+.
25. Jactatio 8a.
26. Wabenkante 6c.
27. Nec Plus Ultra (traverse to the left, rappel at the side) 6b+.

MASSIF DE LA DTS

The ancient artificial routes "Toit du Monde", "Chauve Souris" and "Prussik" have not been listed because they are unsufficiently bolted and cannot be climbed free. The departure alternative "Double Surplomb" of the DTS can be climbed free, but not Rotpunkt, as the protection is very bad. "Les Wallons" has received new bolts and is now called "Ketteklau" and is no longer a departure alternative of "Les Flamands".

1. Les Frittes 6b+.
2. Spigolo Giallo 6b.
3. L'Infernale 7a.
4. No name 7b.
5. Superschlupp (grading of the departure through the roof ??, subsequently 6c).
6. DTS L1 5b, L2 4, L3, 5b.
   UV. Traversee de l'Arbre - Surplomb ?
7. SOS 6a.
8. Kettekklau 6c.
9. Les Flamands 5c.
10. Apocalypse (new bolts, the old protection belongs to Toit du Monde) 7b.
11. No name (departure at Le Diable, traverse to the left) ?
12. Le Diable 7b.